Top Ramen

[pointsnorth]

Going to add some more stitch welds here as well



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[pointsnorth]

This shows the base of the b-pillar and the samurai kick up to the back of the tub is actually a triangulated crossmember. With that now removed there is imo very little structural rigidity as some of this actually started separating while I was using a recip saw to remove it



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[pointsnorth]

I wish I had taken before photos of the b-pillar and rear bulkhead as it separated almost half an inch from the vibration of the recip saw. Here it is all hammer back and ready to get a few stitch welds as well.



This picture shows some of the factory spot welds that were popped before I even started cutting.


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[pointsnorth]

Got all the stitch welding done. Hoping this thing won’t shred like a tin can after its first rollover

even welding with .023 wire and cleaning as best i could it was a pain in the ass. thinking about it now my welded is a mutli voltage setup and next time im going to switch to 120 v for this thin stuff

next up the new A pillar kick panels


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[pointsnorth]

nothing picture worthy happened last night in the shop just ticking off a few things of the list. trimmed some tube to allow easier install of the cab over the cage. Moved the axle coilover mounts to better line up with the frame mounts.

[pointsnorth]

Built some spacers for the upper coil over mounts


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[pointsnorth]

Checking clearances,looks good to me


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[Scott Cee AKA 2drx4]

Looks like those spacers should be perfect.

[pointsnorth]

Cut out and stitch welded A pillar kick panels in place today going to use rivnuts there to make attachment points to the cage


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[arse_sidewards]

I hope you're using steel rivnuts and not the aluminum ones. Also do yourself a favor and either tack weld them or install them with panel adhesive to bare steel. Having rivnuts spin in the hole totally defeats the point of using them in the first place.

[pointsnorth]

Yeah I’ll using steel rivnuts. Good call in using some type of adhesive on them as I can see them spinning on bare metal. I have some self vulcanizing form in place gasket I can use. Just as easy to tack weld them as well


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[pointsnorth]

Slapped the cab on the frame again so I can do the upper cage work along with the the coilovers minus the springs. The picture is ride height and I’ve got 4 3/4 inches of up travel which is right in the ball park that I wanted to be.
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[HillBilt]

Slapped the cab on the frame again so I can do the upper cage work along with the the coilovers minus the springs. The picture is ride height and I’ve got 4 3/4 inches of up travel which is right in the ball park that I wanted to be.
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Looks mint

One big regret I have is uptravel. I set mine at 5" and it sagged down to around 4.5". Only running 4-5" makes it difficult to take advantage of your dual rate springs. Not sure what you are planing for bumps 2" or 4"? but it doesn't give you lots of room to "tune" your springs before you're on the bump and it takes over dampening forces. For me Im always "bumping out" not bottoming, but on my bumps steady at anything with moderate speed. I set my secondaries to come on when my bump is already 2" compressed, stupid but have no other real choice. Makes it feel pretty firm. I feel like 6-8, if possible is a way better number for an all purpose rig.

[pointsnorth]

six is doable the rear springs are what is limiting my ride height their just a 2 1/2 inch first gen 4runner spring from rancho that have who knows how many kms on them. swapping them out for a fresh set of three inch springs would probably level things out with 6 inches of up travel on the front

the shackles are some ome factory length 3inch shackles i had kicking about. i stock 4 and 5 inch at the shop so again raising the ride height isn't to hard

[pointsnorth]

needed a couple of 90 degree oring boss fitting so called up my local hydraulic shop. No stock covid got them back ordered ten days. finally showed up last week I should be able to put the coil over resi in their final mounting position