The Corona Wagon - Just another 2.3 Sami

[pointsnorth]

Look at that paint, we've got another SEMA build here.

bluetooth driveshafts lol

[Snowracer]

Look at that paint, we've got another SEMA build here.

paint makes everything look faster, same as hp stickers

[Joe_the_ice_man]

paint makes everything look faster, same as hp stickers

When what you're starting with is a Samurai, you need every little bit you can get.

[Scott Cee AKA 2drx4]

paint makes everything look faster, same as hp stickers

When what you're starting with is a Samurai, you need every little bit you can get.

[Joe_the_ice_man]

Got the engine back in and running last night. The wiring is still a mess and I spent half an hour looking for a ground to make the ECM boot up , but it runs now.

Didnt run it long enough to get it to operating temp because the intermediate driveshaft was off and the trans was dumping ATF on the floor... and unfortunately the intermediate shaft is short enough/in tight enough that the ujoints dont flex enough to sneak the slip yoke in past the Tcase. Tcase has to come out every time for the driveshaft in or out. I may be able to loosen the mounts and wiggle it in, but that's a problem for after I get my poor broken body back from physio today.

I also had the forethought to smear a layer of tremclad flat black on the firewall and inside of the trans tunnel while everything was out. I'm not much for bodywork and paint, so it was a smear. Hopefully that will do until next time I have to tear something apart.

All the rust repair makes me want to just get one of them aluminum tubs they make in Kelowna (I think), but I'm scared to look at the price.

[Scott Cee AKA 2drx4]

All the rust repair makes me want to just get one of them aluminum tubs they make in Kelowna (I think), but I'm scared to look at the price.

The tub is only $5551 CAD. http://www.hardbody4x4.com/uploads/6/4/ ... y_2022.pdf


If I was trying to do some sort of really nice build I'd probably just accept that going that route is the way to do it. Anything that's going to get beat, ehhhhh, just patch the rust.

[Joe_the_ice_man]

I'll probably *eventually* just bite the bullet and get a tub, imma patch and scab in the meantime until I save up enough for one though...after I have "finished" the rest of my projects

[Joe_the_ice_man]

Progress for the weekend, it runs.

25 ish PSI oil pressure at idle, jumps to 45 ish as soon as you touch the throttle. I think I'm happy with that.

Threw my 33s on with some wheels my dad found me on Facebook. They leak and are very much not safe, but are alright for mockup purposes. Cut the stupid little bumperettes off and now I can turn lock to lock without rubbing with the suspension level, will need a little bit more clearancing to not rub with any compression though.

Mounted the ECM and cleaned up some of the wiring, mocked up the dash. Installed new outer door handles and window cranks. Freed up the door latch mechanisms and now the doors open from the outside, quality of life fix.
It almost looks like something from the inside now, other than being able to see the ground through parts of the floor and rocker panels...

Installed my hybrid drag link for the WJ box. I built up the Suzuki one with weld, cut it off, lathed it down and threaded it for the WJ drag link end. I'm not sure this will work for sure yet, I still have a bit more figuring to make the box fit, let alone handle right. It works good enough to move around the yard for the time being.

Intermediate driveshaft is not as much of a pain to get in and out as I thought it would be, I can undo the mounts, lift it an inch and turn it a little bit and the intermediate shaft comes right out.

I was gonna drive up and down the driveway with it, or maybe even around the subdivision, but as soon as I put it in reverse, the tack welds holding the rear spring perches broke and the axle spun in the u-bolts again. I guess it's about time I decide on how much pinion angle I can get away with and weld the perches on solid.

[Scott Cee AKA 2drx4]

Looks good on the 33s.

Interesting idea to build the drag link up with weld and then machine/thread it. That's poorboy AF but I can't see it being any worse than the stock sized stuff.

[Joe_the_ice_man]

That's poorboy AF but I can't see it being any worse than the stock sized stuff.

Ya know what Scott

People were suggesting that I just butt weld the WJ and Sami drag links together but I felt better about this way.

I think I know where I can get a couple sidekick steering boxes, which I think I will do regardless, but I wanna see how the WJ box makes it handle before I put one in. Dads got another Sami that needs power steering too.

At the time I was mocking up my steering, the only sidekick box I could find the guy was asking 300 or a rifle...um no thanks

[pointsnorth]

you talk about rear pinion angle what rear driveshaft setup are you running as you will create a vibration if your running the stock shaft

[Joe_the_ice_man]

I was screwing around with angles on the lift last night, I think I'm just gonna set it to stock. I'm very tempted to buy the Low Range Offroad perch kit, as I need the u-bolts anyway.

I am running a stock driveshaft for now at least. How much vibration are we talking, and what is the best way to remedy it? I see a lot of the SPOA guys just add a spacer in there, I think I have enough parts to build a whole new shaft if I need one

[pointsnorth]

set the perches parallel to the factory spring under setup as that will run vibration free. turning the pinion would take the ujoints out of phase and definitely induce a vibration like drop the tcase out the truck vibration. if you were to turn the pinion you would run it pointing directly at the tcase with a double cardan at the t case and having a straight pointing ujoint on the pinion. there isnt really any in between imo that doesnt have issues

[arse_sidewards]

there isnt really any in between imo that doesnt have issues

Break out the welder and run some old school CV joint drive shafts.

[Joe_the_ice_man]

set the perches parallel to the factory spring under setup as that will run vibration free. turning the pinion would take the ujoints out of phase and definitely induce a vibration like drop the tcase out the truck vibration. if you were to turn the pinion you would run it pointing directly at the tcase with a double cardan at the t case and having a straight pointing ujoint on the pinion. there isnt really any in between imo that doesnt have issues

Ok, that was my plan, to set the pinion angle parallel with the output shaft. I was messing around with tilting the Tcase a little bit to cheat my driveshaft angle, but I dont think its worth it, I may find some different bushings and lower it a bit instead.

I did not know you could get away with that on a double cardan, I'll have to remember that.