Project Lay-Z-Boy

Scoobienorth · Post by **Scoobienorth** » Thu Mar 12, 2020 9:45 pm

Scott Cee AKA 2drx4 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 12, 2020 9:37 pm Can you add a bracket that bolts to some of the diff cover bolts and then bolts to that as well? It seems like it would be worth it for the safety factor.

The 3 bolts are pretty beefy 14mm I think. Drilled 9/16th hole for them and the cast center section is built for the load. The 4 link Kits do the same thing. If anything fails it’ll be the 1/2 bolt in each frame rail that is bolted through reinforced sheetmetal. The frame side is a lot weaker than the diff.

HillBilt · Post by **HillBilt** » Fri Mar 13, 2020 9:55 am

It will be fine. I think its funny when we build things for our rigs and people say "it will fail" when its 100% overkill from what the OEM built. .250" plate and grade 8 hardware are 10xs stronger than any piece on a factory vehicle. Hell, my 3500 dually has 3 sided 1/8" stamped steel LCA

I load up my 5000pd camper and drive 110 down the hyway without a care, where if I built those same control arms on my rig I would be flamed, flambed mega flamer and a total loser...

Fri Mar 13, 2020 10:09 am

HillBilt wrote: ↑Fri Mar 13, 2020 9:55 am It will be fine. I think its funny when we build things for our rigs and people say "it will fail" when its 100% overkill from what the OEM built. .250" plate and grade 8 hardware are 10xs stronger than any piece on a factory vehicle. Hell, my 3500 dually has 3 sided 1/8" stamped steel LCA I load up my 5000pd camper and drive 110 down the hyway without a care, where if I built those same control arms on my rig I would be flamed, flambed mega flamer and a total loser...

True. Sometimes I wonder how some of the OEM stuff ever held up to begin with. Stamped sheetmetal control arm mounts and spring hangers are pretty common for anything smaller than a half ton, and like you said stamped control arms made out of 1/8" are common on things up to 1 ton.

That said, most if that stuff doesn't last terrible long if you're wheeling it regularly.

Post by **pointsnorth** » Fri Mar 13, 2020 10:17 am

usually the first thing to get tossed on a jeep tj/jk is the stamped tin control arms.

Scoobienorth · Post by **Scoobienorth** » Tue Mar 17, 2020 5:33 pm

Well it’s back and running. Drives way better now than it used to. Tightened the rear end up on the highway, gained 2” of uptravel and close to 1” of droop. It flexes a bit better. Never actually measured the total flex though. I’m basically at the limits of the driveshafts now at both ends. There’s a little left in both driveshafts so they shouldn’t bind. I could trim a little more bumpstop in the rear, maybe 1/2” to get it rubbing on the body again but I’ll leave it as is for now. Up front I’m rubbing on the back side of the fuse box so I need to add about 1/2” to my bumpstop stack on the passenger front. It’s pretty slinky though, happy with it.

Post by **pointsnorth** » Wed Mar 18, 2020 8:46 am

looking good at least you will catch the good spring wheeling season

Snowracer · Post by **Snowracer** » Wed Mar 18, 2020 1:23 pm

looks like the changes are doing as you planned

Scoobienorth · Post by **Scoobienorth** » Wed Mar 25, 2020 9:47 am

Well I welded more onto my bumpstop pads. Added about 1/2” to passenger side, drivers side with the center section it was interfering and missing so I “built “ an offset pad so it catches. Still runs after short 1/2 way through steering but it’s close enough for another shake down run.

Scoobienorth · Post by **Scoobienorth** » Sun Apr 19, 2020 8:36 am

Figured I’d move my transfer case talk over here. Between Steve and I this makes 5 for 5 on these 242’s doing this. This one shifted really poorly. I’d have to roll forward and backwards while steering for a while to get it in or out of 4wd but it lasted longer than all the rest. Most of the others when I got under a lot of load the front drive gear that engages would kick out. This one was different. Once locked in it would stay in under load but as soon as the load come off it c would kick out. The last 4-5km i was breaking trail and the snow got shallow enough it kept kicking out. I held it right on the limiter and it never missed a beat. Then I had to run 2wd until I was stuck. Then 4wd would work and crawl out. Banging pretty bad by the end though. I’ve got a 231 sitting I’d like to swap in. Trying to find the right length rear driveshaft. Think a V8 wj one is a little longer to swap over.

Post by **pointsnorth** » Sun Apr 19, 2020 9:18 am

Should pull the 231 apart and put a HD chain in it for the 30 minutes it takes. A little bit of insurance as well know it’s good

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Scoobienorth · Post by **Scoobienorth** » Sun Apr 19, 2020 9:29 am

pointsnorth wrote: ↑Sun Apr 19, 2020 9:18 am Should pull the 231 apart and put a HD chain in it for the 30 minutes it takes. A little bit of insurance as well know it’s good

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I want to think my 242 planataries and chain might actually fit and be an upgrade. But maybe I’m mixed up. I was going to pull the 231 apart and inspect it anyways. I’ve got a 242 partially apart already

Scoobienorth · Post by **Scoobienorth** » Fri Apr 24, 2020 9:08 pm

Here’s a video of my tcase. It keeps kicking the front axle out when under load or when coming off of load. It looks like the shift collar is worn but I can’t find a solid pic of what it should look like. I’m thinking a combination of the gear wear along with the springs in the shift linkage are allowing it to kick out but I don’t know much. Anyone got any advice.

https://youtu.be/dB02AZuXQLI

Scoobienorth · Post by **Scoobienorth** » Sat Apr 25, 2020 6:55 am

Well it’s 231 swap time. I’ll need a slip yoke for the 231, something for the shift linkage and possibly a driveshaft from a wj 4.0 quadratrac. The gear is trashed for sure. Possibly the internal one as well. Not worth fighting the fight any more. The gear is hard to find and kinda expensive and with how common it is it’s not worth wasting another one

Post by **Scott Cee AKA 2drx4** » Sat Apr 25, 2020 7:16 am

I'll have to pull one of my 242s apart and see if that gear is supposed to look like that or not, just for curiosity at this point.

Is the 231 really worthwhile? Why not go to a 241 if you're at it anyways? A 241 DLD should bolt in, they're 23 spline input, you may have to trim the input down if it's slightly too long though.

Scoobienorth · Post by **Scoobienorth** » Sat Apr 25, 2020 7:26 am

Scott Cee AKA 2drx4 wrote: ↑Sat Apr 25, 2020 7:16 am I'll have to pull one of my 242s apart and see if that gear is supposed to look like that or not, just for curiosity at this point.

Is the 231 really worthwhile? Why not go to a 241 if you're at it anyways? A 241 DLD should bolt in, they're 23 spline input, you may have to trim the input down if it's slightly too long though.

Honestly it’s just because I have a 231 that I scrounged up for free and they are Easy to find if I have issues. They are plenty strong enough for me, I’ve got plenty Of weak links already

4x4 North

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