The Work Truck

[pointsnorth]

I’m really liking that Barnes front truss. most front trusses seem to end up being huge.


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[Sterlingfire]

Thanks! I think it's a great piece too. I was going to go artec, but for the price and now knowing the fitment is spot on, the price makes it a no brainer.
Here it is all welded up with the lower link mounts hot glued on.
Got a bunch more done with cleaning up the shop, so hopefully on schedule with that so i can back on this...

[Provience]

nice

[Sterlingfire]

Well worked on it all day today. Got a bunch done. Mostly grinding... that was what took up most of my time. But that led to a frame plate getting installed. Both are built, just have to weld the passenger side plate in, then weld the cross member in. Hopefully some time this week I'll get that all buttoned up.

[Sterlingfire]

As you can see the trans, underdrive, and transfer case mocked up to see where it lands. That happened Easter Sunday. I think I'm going to raise the engine up at least 2 inches. Hoping i can get 3. If i have to I'll pull it toward the front, still have tons of room to go forward.
Another thing i got done today was ground the rear axle down to the tubes and mocked the truss on. Finished welding that as well. Have to do my tubes to diff still, but can't until i get more oxygen for the torch. I'm going to preheat, weld, then peen. I'm running nickel wire to help out. Used that method on the old axle with no issues.

[HMF]

Looking good man nickle wire for the win

[Scott Cee AKA 2drx4]

I didn't even know you could buy nickel wire. I'm going to have to look into that.

[HMF]

I didn't even know you could buy nickel wire. I'm going to have to look into that.

You can buy nickel rod for stick welding/tig welding but it's not the cheapest thing in the world

[Scott Cee AKA 2drx4]

I didn't even know you could buy nickel wire. I'm going to have to look into that.

You can buy nickel rod for stick welding/tig welding but it's not the cheapest thing in the world

I have Ni-99 and Castarc (IIRC, might have the names off a bit, I rarely pull it out) stick for cast iron. Not cheap, but not too bad for how often it's used. But he's running a MIG welder and that implies you can get high high nickel wire. That would be tits since I hate stick welding.

[Sterlingfire]

Yeah about 75 for 2 lb spool on ebay.
I honestly haven't tried mig with nickel wire yet. I've done stick with high nickel rod on the other truck's 14 bolt. I figure it should be about the same, heat, weld, peen, about an inch at a time on opposite tubes.

[Scott Cee AKA 2drx4]

2lbs should last a couple years for most people, so that doesn't seem like a terrible deal. Definitely let us know how it runs.

[Sterlingfire]

No it's not awful priced. If it's shit wire it is though

[Sterlingfire]

Well, got the rest of the rear cross member welded in. Should make a nice mounting point for a flat belly skid as well. Speaking of that, what do you guys think of using 3/16 plate skinned with 1/2" uhmmv? That's what I've been hooked on doing lately. The 3/16 would be backed with a removable frame of some sort in between the cross members.

[HillBilt]

I feel that UHMW is more of a personal preference than anything, Im not sure if your familiar with UH or not, but its more for "wear resistance" ie chain runs or guides, due to its lubricating properties, its not so much for high impact like your belly would see. I know lots of guys use it, but it will still get tore up from rocks and such. Personally I would go with a quality high grade steel.

[Sterlingfire]

I'm looking at it from a strength standpoint. I know it will get tore up pretty bad, but i want to keep weight down and strength high.
What grade and thickness plate would you use?
I wonder if i could put the uh between the 3/16 steel plate and truck frame? how might that work?