1940 Buick

[Provience]

still need to figure out how i'm going to get all this into there. liable to bend the fawking axle before i even get going with all this nonsense
Steering cylinders will be about there

front view, might need to go up another inch on the winch, so i'm toying around with way to keep it from just wanting to rip everything apart ~8" above the top of the housing. need to go up just a little more from where it is so that the gear levers can be used and out of the way of the upper link mounts

top view, then i'll also need a skid that comes under the tie rod and out to the front to mount the fairlead to. yes, the wire is wound off the top of the drum instead of the bottom, bought it used and won't change that until much later

needs more staring at, either way

[Scott Cee AKA 2drx4]

Would you be better off narrowing the winch a bit? Even a couple inches? It's fairly easy to unwind it, section the drum, booger weld it back together, and then wind the cable on to hide it.



PS, that weld is undercut. Add more filler next time.

[Provience]

undercut? no.

underfilled? yeah sure. that is less of a problem than undercut. i was actually pretty sad while doing this, i could well see that i wasn't getting nearly as much in to the insert as i wanted. it isn't often i'm want for more than 140 amps but the 1.5" OD for 7/8" threads resulted in a pretty thick wall insert. add in the fact that ruffstuff uses a hex head instead of just round and well, yeah i should have just taken it in to work and used a bigger machine on it. sucked the heat pretty good. "if it dies, it dies"

cutting down the winch drum, that's a fuckin' winner though ~1-1/2" out of the drum would let me set the whole thing down to basically the top of the pumpkin on one side and then it's only up a couple inches on the other. i'd be way more happy with that. thanks!


and damn, now you are going to make me think about that weld i guess we'll see if i take them back off and take them in to a bigger machine, or hook my welder up to 220v when i tear everything down to fully weld up all the tubes and such

[Scott Cee AKA 2drx4]

Every tube insert I've ever welded has made me "think about that weld" yet they're never what fails... I'm sure it will be totally fine. If you go full pen on them they tend to just fuxxxor the threads anyways.

[Provience]

all the other ones, i have taps for so they weren't a big deal to run hot and they were all thinner, so the 140amp welded felt good with the 120wall tube and the 1" inserts, took it in to use the bigass synchrowave at work for the 2"x1/4 wall tube.

but i didn't want to buy a left hand tap, and i'm pretty sure (maybe?) that these are my only two left hand joints on the whole pile recycling, good for the body, bad for the mind.

shit breaks: where in the fuck was that actually from again? Shit...

[Sterlingfire]

all the other ones, i have taps for so they weren't a big deal to run hot and they were all thinner, so the 140amp welded felt good with the 120wall tube and the 1" inserts, took it in to use the bigass synchrowave at work for the 2"x1/4 wall tube.

but i didn't want to buy a left hand tap, and i'm pretty sure (maybe?) that these are my only two left hand joints on the whole pile recycling, good for the body, bad for the mind.

shit breaks: where in the fuck was that actually from again? Shit...

Lefty tap on ebay is only about $25 shipped.
As always this car is awesome! It might take longer than you want, but you're getting it done very well!

[Provience]

Lefty tap on ebay is only about $25 shipped.
As always this car is awesome! It might take longer than you want, but you're getting it done very well!

thanks!

$25? that isn't too bad and is good to know, even if they aren't worth a shit for cutting new threads, they are probably plenty good for chasing them to fix after welding. for some reason it seems like i was finding them in the $75-100 range.

[Sterlingfire]

Lefty tap on ebay is only about $25 shipped.
As always this car is awesome! It might take longer than you want, but you're getting it done very well!

thanks!

$25? that isn't too bad and is good to know, even if they aren't worth a shit for cutting new threads, they are probably plenty good for chasing them to fix after welding. for some reason it seems like i was finding them in the $75-100 range.

Yeah i definitely wouldn't use it for anything more than thread chasing, but if in a pinch and you go real real slow with some cutting oil, i bet it would cut fresh threads.
I bought a left and right hand tap for my 1 1/4 threads for about 65 a couple years ago and they're still chasing threads fine. I have a few to do for my new build and hoping they'll still cut lol.

[Provience]

Journey to the center of a MileMarker 12K hydraulic winch!

turns out these are just plugs and don't need to be removed part of the clocking options for the motor

pops apart with gentle tapping

big ole gnarly planetary set

and a meaty heat treated shaft

[Provience]

super tacky grease inside this thing. so that i don't forget later, the big shoulder of the planets goes toward the drum and the small end of the spring goes towards the drum.

everything with 2" out of it. Didn't want to hand cut the drum, i'll use the horizontal saw at work. I'm going to turn a chunk of 2" od tube slightly to be a press fit for the inside of the drum to keep it aligned, and make a sleeve for the outside of the transfer shaft and weld it using the bigger machine. Doing that thing at the house with some angle to keep it aligned just isn't doing it in my head.

also installed some push pins for the dash. makes me feel fancy and they are way easier to deal with than the screws that were there before

[Provience]

and finally decided on a direction to get the seat mounted.

chopped up a handle from a home made tool. this was originally a handy way to hold a pinion flange against the floor to set crush sleeves

16" between the feet

went ahead and set these tabs that were in a drawer on there. along the inboard side, that is the middle of the seat, then 4" outboard to the next one. should be stable enough, seat belts are for keeping things in place anyways

and some visual success for the day!

[Snowracer]

you are going to mount the winch on the diff?

[Sterlingfire]

you are going to mount the winch on the diff?

I thought the same It will be a bitch to get at it if your diff is underwater or there's an obstacle in the way of getting at it, but should actually pull with better geometry from a lower position. I myself wouldn't do it, but trust provience and his end goal

[Snowracer]

you are going to mount the winch on the diff?

I thought the same It will be a bitch to get at it if your diff is underwater or there's an obstacle in the way of getting at it, but should actually pull with better geometry from a lower position. I myself wouldn't do it, but trust provience and his end goal

Seen lots of rigs run them on the diff with good results, but never a beast of a hydro winch on a floppy noodle toy diff

[HillBilt]

Thrust and Needle bearings on the winch, I'm impressed, would of not expected that from a milemarker. Their Hydraulic line must be higher standard than their electric models.