1940 Buick
- Provience
- Actually Wheels
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Re: 1940 Buick
pretty much there. might need to do an 1/8" spacer, might just not bolt them solidly and let them float. not set on anything at the moment.
now that it was all together, pulled it out of the garage for the first time. finally counts as a car
body needed to be trimmed some more, it was still sitting a few inches higher than it should have been
now that it was all together, pulled it out of the garage for the first time. finally counts as a car
body needed to be trimmed some more, it was still sitting a few inches higher than it should have been
Up is difficult, down is dangerous
- Provience
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Re: 1940 Buick
Close enough
surplus center rams showed up. went ahead and got some of their joints, so we'll see how long it lasts i'm just going to chop off the one thing and weld on the other
dual cylinders + tie rod = strong enough hopefully
lightweight = gofast, but unsprung weigh = not flipping over so i'm going to see if i can fit my winch on my axle, behind the steering. this is going to take a bunch more staring at it
surplus center rams showed up. went ahead and got some of their joints, so we'll see how long it lasts i'm just going to chop off the one thing and weld on the other
dual cylinders + tie rod = strong enough hopefully
lightweight = gofast, but unsprung weigh = not flipping over so i'm going to see if i can fit my winch on my axle, behind the steering. this is going to take a bunch more staring at it
Up is difficult, down is dangerous
- Provience
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Re: 1940 Buick
i really like the stock dash and look forward to reusing it. good looks > functioning gauges
and bought a bead roller and a couple sheets of 0.040 Aluminium to play with
practice piece was fun
so i figured i'd start on a huge piece of the floor <-- don't recommend for your second ever piece
8" throat means i couldn't reach the middle, so i used a hammer, nut and some wood
i got results, but i wouldn't call them good
and bought a bead roller and a couple sheets of 0.040 Aluminium to play with
practice piece was fun
so i figured i'd start on a huge piece of the floor <-- don't recommend for your second ever piece
8" throat means i couldn't reach the middle, so i used a hammer, nut and some wood
i got results, but i wouldn't call them good
Up is difficult, down is dangerous
- Provience
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Re: 1940 Buick
pretty good twist still in there.
phoned a friend and was told to basically keep beating it and see if i can beat the warble out. don't have a shrinker or a shrinking hammer
true or not, it seems to fit better now so i'm running with it
put a bunch of triangles in there to bolt the floor to. in retrospect, this was stupid. i'm going to go with ~3/4" x 1-1/2" rectangles next time. triangle was a stupid shape for stupid people to do stupid things
and welding the 0.045 triangles to the .120 tube was also stupid, while sitting with a jackstand under each thigh because i didn't want to go inside and grab a short stool
phoned a friend and was told to basically keep beating it and see if i can beat the warble out. don't have a shrinker or a shrinking hammer
true or not, it seems to fit better now so i'm running with it
put a bunch of triangles in there to bolt the floor to. in retrospect, this was stupid. i'm going to go with ~3/4" x 1-1/2" rectangles next time. triangle was a stupid shape for stupid people to do stupid things
and welding the 0.045 triangles to the .120 tube was also stupid, while sitting with a jackstand under each thigh because i didn't want to go inside and grab a short stool
Up is difficult, down is dangerous
- Provience
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Re: 1940 Buick
welp, might as well get the front axle into decent condition. i need a break from fucking up my interior
hubs have been neglected for a while, new bearings all around
new 'stock toyota' steering arm studs and drilled for 5th stud. these arms were also set up to brace off the steering stops, so this will be the worlds most ghetto 6 stud toyota knuckles
also pulled apart the 30 spline TG birfs to grease them up.
super grossly welded. i tacked everything in place with the fcaw and then did a pass inside and out with the gtaw, but man was it unhappy going over the tacks and i really didn't want to get up and regrind my electrode
hubs have been neglected for a while, new bearings all around
new 'stock toyota' steering arm studs and drilled for 5th stud. these arms were also set up to brace off the steering stops, so this will be the worlds most ghetto 6 stud toyota knuckles
also pulled apart the 30 spline TG birfs to grease them up.
super grossly welded. i tacked everything in place with the fcaw and then did a pass inside and out with the gtaw, but man was it unhappy going over the tacks and i really didn't want to get up and regrind my electrode
Up is difficult, down is dangerous
- Provience
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Re: 1940 Buick
the other day i figured if i redo that panel, it will be when i'm better, so i went ahead and screwed it in place for now
and bought a bracket from Front Range Off Road to make life easy for mounting the GX 470 brakes. 13.3" rotors and substantial calipers compared to the tacoma stuff i had before, which is now on my rear axle.
had to drill one of the holes as a bolt would go through due to the way the program cut. these are a two piece, the space is just cut out and the main ring is drilled. not sure why the spacer as the holes even close to final size :shaking:
this kit is designed to swap the knuckles left to right so that you can run the caliper behind the axle. well fuck that, i've already drilled and matched my arms to my knuckles, so i'm swapping calipers left to right and running them in front of the axle. had to trim my quick and dirty fifth stud
stupid socket cap bolts that it ships with probably work great mounted behind the axle but won't work for me. 1/2-20x1-1/4" bolts are in my future so that i can put this in with a wrench.
regardless, it fits and works pretty good !
and bought a bracket from Front Range Off Road to make life easy for mounting the GX 470 brakes. 13.3" rotors and substantial calipers compared to the tacoma stuff i had before, which is now on my rear axle.
had to drill one of the holes as a bolt would go through due to the way the program cut. these are a two piece, the space is just cut out and the main ring is drilled. not sure why the spacer as the holes even close to final size :shaking:
this kit is designed to swap the knuckles left to right so that you can run the caliper behind the axle. well fuck that, i've already drilled and matched my arms to my knuckles, so i'm swapping calipers left to right and running them in front of the axle. had to trim my quick and dirty fifth stud
stupid socket cap bolts that it ships with probably work great mounted behind the axle but won't work for me. 1/2-20x1-1/4" bolts are in my future so that i can put this in with a wrench.
regardless, it fits and works pretty good !
Up is difficult, down is dangerous
- Provience
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Re: 1940 Buick
caliper clears the ID of the wheel without issue, this is almost as much brake leverage as i can fit
doesn't clear the face, playing around with some 0.100" shims lands me at needing about 0.250" of space to clear. Really didn't want to run any more spacers, but 1/4" is more than i want to grind off the face of the caliper. oh well, can't win most of them.
safe enough
also pulled out and replaced the broken fitting from earlier. T40 bit worked like a champ
and this is where i'm going to move my upper link to and as far as i am as of today hopefully giving it some more angle will help take some stress off, granted, it was only very slightly tacked, but it breaking from just lifting the thing up was enough to make me nervous about its strength, so more angle should help locate it
well, thanks for checking out the thread for everybody who has popped in! I work slowly and not often on this and have a long way to go, but i'll keep adding updates as i get things checked off
doesn't clear the face, playing around with some 0.100" shims lands me at needing about 0.250" of space to clear. Really didn't want to run any more spacers, but 1/4" is more than i want to grind off the face of the caliper. oh well, can't win most of them.
safe enough
also pulled out and replaced the broken fitting from earlier. T40 bit worked like a champ
and this is where i'm going to move my upper link to and as far as i am as of today hopefully giving it some more angle will help take some stress off, granted, it was only very slightly tacked, but it breaking from just lifting the thing up was enough to make me nervous about its strength, so more angle should help locate it
well, thanks for checking out the thread for everybody who has popped in! I work slowly and not often on this and have a long way to go, but i'll keep adding updates as i get things checked off
Up is difficult, down is dangerous
- Provience
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Re: 1940 Buick
huh, weird. samsies for me. i can click the words IMGXYZ and it pulls up the picture
edit: after i created this post and the page reloaded, all the pictures came back as embeded
edit: after i created this post and the page reloaded, all the pictures came back as embeded
Up is difficult, down is dangerous
- Scott Cee AKA 2drx4
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Re: 1940 Buick
TMR makes some really nice little prefabbed tab things with a threaded insert in them and a radius so they sit nicely against the tube. With the current US/CAD exchange rate they're probably almost free.Provience wrote: ↑Sun Mar 29, 2020 8:49 pm put a bunch of triangles in there to bolt the floor to. in retrospect, this was stupid. i'm going to go with ~3/4" x 1-1/2" rectangles next time. triangle was a stupid shape for stupid people to do stupid things
IMG_2940.JPG
and welding the 0.045 triangles to the .120 tube was also stupid, while sitting with a jackstand under each thigh because i didn't want to go inside and grab a short stool
IMG_2943.JPG
I'll look into the image thing... Apparently there's some sort of limit of how many it will load on one page per load attempt, so at least it will load all of them if you refresh. But that's not how I intended it to work.
- Showtime100
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Re: 1940 Buick
Needs more triangulation.
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
'94 XL/ Pro Comp 6" coils/ 4" Tuff Country axle pivot brackets/ BGY 6" drop radius arm pivot brackets
1ton TRE Flip/ Upgraded-rebuilt E4OD(To PSD specs)/ 2" rr lift blk/ 5100 Bilsteins/ 33" BFGs.
'94 XL/ Pro Comp 6" coils/ 4" Tuff Country axle pivot brackets/ BGY 6" drop radius arm pivot brackets
1ton TRE Flip/ Upgraded-rebuilt E4OD(To PSD specs)/ 2" rr lift blk/ 5100 Bilsteins/ 33" BFGs.
- Provience
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Re: 1940 Buick
it's kind of funny, i've spent so much of my time during quarantine going outside and doing all this family jazz that i've only made less progress on this during this time than when i was working full time
so yeah, i'm working on the triangles but slowly !
Up is difficult, down is dangerous
- Provience
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Re: 1940 Buick
well i'll try out 5 images per post and see if it loads better for e'erybod'eh
CAD'd out some new upper brackets
transferred to metal. for some reason my hands were extra unsteady today, couldn't make even half an inch straight line
matched them up anyways, the grinder will make you the welder you ain't
cut about in half, heated and folded gently
CAD'd out some new upper brackets
transferred to metal. for some reason my hands were extra unsteady today, couldn't make even half an inch straight line
matched them up anyways, the grinder will make you the welder you ain't
cut about in half, heated and folded gently
Up is difficult, down is dangerous
- Provience
- Actually Wheels
- Posts: 329
- Joined: Fri Mar 27, 2020 5:15 pm
- Location: USA
- Has Liked: 2 times
Re: 1940 Buick
metally brackets in place.
I've never been one to only show perfect welds didn't take the time to clear out space to get comfortable and my weld width and consistency paid the price.
Ruff Stuff Specialties had the 7/8-14 LH inserts for 1.5" ID tube on hand
new upper links installed, netted a good bit more clearance from the engine as well as more angle for support
full bump at the highest hole locations
I've never been one to only show perfect welds didn't take the time to clear out space to get comfortable and my weld width and consistency paid the price.
Ruff Stuff Specialties had the 7/8-14 LH inserts for 1.5" ID tube on hand
new upper links installed, netted a good bit more clearance from the engine as well as more angle for support
full bump at the highest hole locations
Up is difficult, down is dangerous