1940 Buick

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Provience
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1940 Buick

Post by Provience »

Welp, might as well post up my glacially slow and hack fab build over here. at this point, all content is good content, right? :flipoff:

1940 Buick 4 Door
2005 LM7
TH350
203/300 doubler. will be 32 spline in and out when i get around to it
FJ60 axles, 4.56 gear, ARB rear, Detroit front 63 or 65" front, i'll have to measure one of these days and 61" or so rear
122"ish wheelbase
37" tires, recentered 8 bolt wheels
4 link front/rear
14" radflo 2.0 remote res shocks
q-amp steering, high volume pump, hydraulic brakes, hydraulic winch, hydraulic steering

this is my first attempt at a custom chassis and i'm not cautious or patient, so it will hopefully be close enough to functional :cheers:

bringing home the body and title
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started off putting things where they go to see what it will look like
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lots of measuring and lots of drawing to come up with a rough goal for the chassis
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i bought the drivetrain as a package deal, turns out the "never had an issues with it" front axle had a hole
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don't run no oil, it destroys the gears
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Re: 1940 Buick

Post by Scoobienorth »

That’s a cool build to see taking shape

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pointsnorth
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Re: 1940 Buick

Post by pointsnorth »

This should be interesting


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Provience
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Re: 1940 Buick

Post by Provience »

Thanks! as long as it keeps moving forward i'm happy :laughing:

being a toyota guy, i've spent most of my life on 8" diffs, so i'm excited to try out the 9.5" stuff.
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bought a bunch of tube, being a cheap bastard i went with 1-3/4" tube everywhere. 0.188 for the lower part of the subframe, 0.120 for the main structure, 0.090 for all the straight filler pieces. need more garage next time
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bought a rogue fab bender. keeping it on a harbor freight moving dolly is far and away the most space saver bending setup i could come up with. don't have a solid table or clear weather outside
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and i bought a rogue fab notcher many years ago. easy and works well. every now and then have to do some weird ones by hand, but overall worth it as far as i'm concerned.
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Provience
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Re: 1940 Buick

Post by Provience »

for years anytime somebody would ask me about working on or building cars, the first thing was always "focus on the tires, build around the suspension, base the chassis off the subframe" so, had to finally put some money where my mouth was :homer:

the axles came with link mounts, 4 rear, 3 front, from 4wheelunderground. brian was actually right down the street from me at the time, so i talked to him for a bit. he encouraged me to go 4 front/rear and use the general rules of "flat lowers, as wide on the axle as you can get, uppers as tight on the axle as you can get and as wide on the frame as you can get" so that's what i've been working off.

this was the first and possibly last time i used straps or anything really to try and hold stuff square, and it shows later on :laughing:
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also bought a CK Worldwide MT-200 tig welder for the house. it only does 140amp on 115v, but i'm likely not going to bother putting 210v service in this house. really enjoy this thing and highly recommend for anybody looking for a 200amp 115v/220v machine.
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next to my hobart 140. If anybody is the type of person that looks down on flux core welders, you'll be happy to know that i don't give 2 fucks nor bother to clean my welds before taking pictures :) oddly, i'm a welder by trade :eek:
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Provience
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Re: 1940 Buick

Post by Provience »

cope
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clean
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weld
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weld,weld,weld,weld.....weld? they aren't all perfect copes :flipoff2:
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got it here, needed to do more welding and got tired of welding on the floow
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Provience
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Re: 1940 Buick

Post by Provience »

Is there an attachment limit on posts? I'm just doing 5/post out of habit

so i made up this little table. the intent was just to be a cutting table
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but, if it fits it ships. turns out it is also a chassis table :shock:
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there is exactly 1 spot i can bend long tubes at in my garage
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Provience
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Re: 1940 Buick

Post by Provience »

Made up some adapters. i'm fortunate to be working in a machine shop at the moment and i get to use the equipment to run personal projects during lunch if i'm not otherwise too busy
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i'm generally wary of but welds in tubes, especially when they are going to be in sheer or high impact areas, so these make me feel better for spots that won't have a joint covering them
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upside down version of the subframe/floor about done up
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random picture, tig weld on the right side, flux core on the left side. mostly depends on how comfortable i'm feeling, how many hands i've got available and what side of the garage i'm on for which welder i grab. they are both running 140 amps, so while i get more control with the tig, one isn't inherently any better for gluing these tube together
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Scott Cee AKA 2drx4
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Re: 1940 Buick

Post by Scott Cee AKA 2drx4 »

Provience wrote: Sun Mar 29, 2020 5:20 pm i bought the drivetrain as a package deal, turns out the "never had an issues with it" front axle had a hole

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That's awesome, hole right through it. :lmao:

Wish people would be a little more honest when they sold shit. :ogre:

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Provience
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Re: 1940 Buick

Post by Provience »

Junkyard hydroboost from a 198? suburban. should make for plenty of crush to math the GX470 brakes i'm running up front
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PRP seats. i'm only 6'2" tall and ~190lbs on a fat day but still had to go with +2 wide and a tall seat and +4 (35 or 39"?) or so in order to get my head to actually hit the pad. it's amazing how small most seats are. not something i ever though about until i hit a tree going backwards at about 15 mph and put my head through the rear window :rasta:
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harni, harnessess' ? 5.3 for the front seats, 5.2 for the rears for the wife and kid
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tech tip of the day: If you ever want a GOOD disc for grinding tungsten, get a diamond disc. this was 5 or 10 $ off amazon and will outlast anything that isn't diamond substantially. intended use is "concrete grinding" don't need anything aggressive, but don't get like a 400 grit
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flipped the frame over and started working on the link placements
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Provience
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Re: 1940 Buick

Post by Provience »

Scott Cee AKA 2drx4 wrote: Sun Mar 29, 2020 6:39 pm
Provience wrote: Sun Mar 29, 2020 5:20 pm i bought the drivetrain as a package deal, turns out the "never had an issues with it" front axle had a hole

IMG_2463.JPG
That's awesome, hole right through it. :lmao:

Wish people would be a little more honest when they sold shit. :ogre:
so, no fucking shit, i talked to this dude on the phone for like an hour about this stuff because he was ~8 hours one way. mostly talked about the front axle because i've seen him posting about this truck and such for years and personally have not once in my life ever suggested FJ60 or FJ40 stuff to anybody. minitruck, FJ80 or just go to Dana stuff. 'naw, naw, i've broken transmissions, blown engines, broke a rear ring gear, but i've never had an issue with the front. only thing that has been problem free since installed. hell, i just took it out trail riding this past weekend'

so i drives out there and spent some time helping him rip the stuff out and torch off the links "gotta save them, imma reuse those" so i didn't check it out too closely there.

shame on me, but it came with 75% of spare diff and he eventually ended up refunding me $200 to cover a rebuild kit so i can't complain anymore than i do :rasta:

craziest thing about it though, this is the one with the hole
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but the 'spare' housing had been welded in the exact same spot :laughing:
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Provience
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Re: 1940 Buick

Post by Provience »

sometimes the liquid wrench is the only way to get used parts apart.
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did a bunch of playing and flipping and around of stuff to what goes where
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and this is why i'm going to a 32 spline input to the D300 to match the 32 spline outputs. internal twists i'm okay with on used parts. still cheaper than buying all new and actually getting lightweight stuff that works as it should
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driveshaft clearance without a rise in the floor should be nice later.
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and from concept
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Provience
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Re: 1940 Buick

Post by Provience »

to reality for link brackets. i'm way too cheap to spring for even a chinese plasma or to bother making wheels/rollers for my torch. if it isn't free hand i just don't want it :flipoff: same goes for 'walking the cup' welding and battery powered tools. can't have that cheating stuff in my life :headbang:
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:laughing: oh yeah, my worlds cheapest freestanding drill press doesn't like to drill holes. sometimes the belt slips to let me know i've gone too far, sometimes the chuck pops off :garfield:
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Provience
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Re: 1940 Buick

Post by Provience »

random note: the 8" deep truck pan is much too much to be acceptable. still need to find/buy a cheap pan. can't hardly bring myself to spend $250 on one. for that price i might fuck around and make one :homer:
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suspension mockup is important. i've heard so is adjust-ability. unless i'm way off, probably won't mess with the Anti squat much though
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and trying out the front
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it's amazing how precise a bucket can be if you adjust your measurements to 'number of buckets'
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Provience
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Re: 1940 Buick

Post by Provience »

safety is important when using an engine hoist that came out of somebody elses scrap pile. really should just put new seals in that and my floor jack. oh well, metal from the cutting table also works.
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motor mount and engine skid in place. hence why the 8" pan won't do, but a 5.5" should fit
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everybody has to post pictures of snow when it snows, well, it snowed
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also started on the worlds worst transfercase mount. i hate it, but it's still there :laughing:
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