Project Lay-Z-Boy

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Scoobienorth
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Re: Project Lay-Z-Boy

Post by Scoobienorth »

I felt like I should have dropped them before putting them in. So shiny on the turd it’s out of place

wyldcdn
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Re: Project Lay-Z-Boy

Post by wyldcdn »

very sweet build

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Re: Project Lay-Z-Boy

Post by Scoobienorth »

21B04FB1-7A6D-4CC7-BF99-D0193A9D6A66.jpeg
Well that’s a wrap. Dana 35 finally puked. Never thought it would be spider gears first.

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pointsnorth
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Re: Project Lay-Z-Boy

Post by pointsnorth »

Welder up


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Re: Project Lay-Z-Boy

Post by Scoobienorth »

pointsnorth wrote: Mon Jan 20, 2020 12:23 pm Welder up


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We discussed that. But since my upper A arm is shot as well we are crossing the bridge to swapping my 44a. But then my driveshaft is to long for that diff I need to push the rear diff back Which gives me clearance on the door I need with the 37’s. Just trying to figure it out with a non existent budget. The frame side bolt goes through vertical and the diff side id need to build a plate and mount but it’s easy as the diff has a spot already because the factory balljoint bolts on there. Lower arms I’ve got 2 sets which are good enough so it’s easy to stretch those. I think if I got heim joints for the frame side I could scavenge what I need to build upper arms instead of using the a-arm bslljoints thing.

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Scott Cee AKA 2drx4
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Re: Project Lay-Z-Boy

Post by Scott Cee AKA 2drx4 »

Amazing a D35 lasted that long. :rasta:

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Re: Project Lay-Z-Boy

Post by Scoobienorth »

Scott Cee AKA 2drx4 wrote: Mon Jan 20, 2020 3:11 pm Amazing a D35 lasted that long. :rasta:

It almost got welded to see how much life is left in it. But feel I’ve played with fire long enough. If my upper arm was in better shape I may have tried it.

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Re: Project Lay-Z-Boy

Post by Scoobienorth »

It’s funny the internet said the d35 and 42re would be the first things to go. Oddly enough the 35 outlasted a lot, Broke Piston’s, steering box, track bar, front end, cooling system.

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Re: Project Lay-Z-Boy

Post by Scoobienorth »

859F184D-5336-4F2B-8E4D-2DA1F5257E40.jpeg
5B1F895C-468E-439A-952C-8EF5243FA816.jpeg
I have no idea if this will work yet. I’m trying to mimic the factory a-arm geometry but use 2 separate arms. I’ve stretched the lower arms 3/4” and the uppers will be adjustable and will bolt into factory frame hole. I’m trying to land the center between the 2 arms right in the center of where the ball joint sat. I couldn’t find tube for the upper arms down here anywhere but my rough country front arms were exactly the size and length I needed so I’m using those with 3/4x2.5 heims on one end. These pics are at full droop. I need some small parts and hand to finish roughing things in and cycle it and see if it flexes ok.

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Re: Project Lay-Z-Boy

Post by Scoobienorth »

If it doesn’t work I’ll get one more heim and build these arms into an a-arm like the aftermarket ones.

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HillBilt
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Re: Project Lay-Z-Boy

Post by HillBilt »

Im confused. Do the WJs run a wishbone upper in the rear? is that what your trying to replace?
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Re: Project Lay-Z-Boy

Post by Scoobienorth »

HillBilt wrote: Wed Feb 26, 2020 3:15 pm Im confused. Do the WJs run a wishbone upper in the rear? is that what your trying to replace?
The wj has a triangle A arm on the upper. It’s got rubber bushings in the frame and a ball joint on top of the diff that’s prone to failing.

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HillBilt
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Re: Project Lay-Z-Boy

Post by HillBilt »

Ah, gotcha. I don't see why it wouldn't work.
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Scott Cee AKA 2drx4
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Re: Project Lay-Z-Boy

Post by Scott Cee AKA 2drx4 »

Yeah, that should function exactly the same.

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Re: Project Lay-Z-Boy

Post by SasquatchCdn »

Should function better and last longer than the stock y-link.

Those things are junk

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