I may have a problem. Yet another unfinished turbo Sami?

[Scott Cee AKA 2drx4]

I guess that's the risk you take with used parts, but at least you figured it out and the workaround.

[Joe_the_ice_man]

It is kinda annoying, but yes, I think the headache was worth the $400 price difference

[Scott Cee AKA 2drx4]

I'm wondering if that same issue was why the PO never managed to make it run good on their setup?

[Joe_the_ice_man]

I think that may be the case, he probably felt it wasn't worth his time to figure it out on a DIY standalone. Cause I know he just swapped it out for a standalone he knew something about

In other news, I ordered the electronic components I need to make it run all the things I want it to. Like relay outputs and a tach. So far I'm into the ECU for under $300.

In the meantime, I'm gonna try to button it up enough to do a fanless test drive and start getting my tune closer. Will post my wiring and base settings on the weekend.

Also, I did shell out for a wideband AFR gauge last week. Megasquirt will read directly off the analog output of the gauge on this one. It had effectively replaced the narrowband O2 the motor was designed to run.

[Joe_the_ice_man]

Took some time to tie stuff up and get it looking slightly less janky.

Megasquirt requires 2 relays and sets of fuses to run. As you can see, I have cobbled 2 PA fuseboxes in there, relays are on the backside.
Both fuseboxes are hooked to the output of their respective relays.
Main relay is running ECU switched power, Fuel pump relay COIL (just the coil that the ECU controls) and my Wideband O2 controller.
Fuel pump relay runs fuel pump, coil power, fuel injector power, and idle valve power. Plus one more fuse I forgot to label cause I'm stupid...

Took it for a test drive today and it's running a bit hotter than I'm comfortable with. To be fair, I dont have a fan yet, but that shouldn't matter at cruising speeds. Given how far from the head my thermostat is I think finding a colder thermostat and drilling a small hole for some circulation is the play.

I ziptied together an intake with a knock off K&N I had lying around just for the purpose of a test drive.

Also have a vacuum gauge and my AFR gauge ziptied to the dash so I can be distracted by gauges and a laptop as I try and get my tune close-ish. I leaned it out a ton more today and it's still a bit rich.

[Joe_the_ice_man]

Just a note, I am still struggling with the idle valve. If I have it plugged in, the motor requires throttle to run. Everything I've done has it unplugged thus far. It runs at about 1200 with it unplugged.

[Scott Cee AKA 2drx4]

There's no stops or internal adjustments on it to ensure it doesn't close too far? Or some sort of calibration for the closed position?

[Joe_the_ice_man]

I did not see any mechanical adjustment, it appears to be just PWM. Its probably my settings, but I may have to pull it off to make sure my wiring is right. Realistically, this is the last thing I will tackle, all the megasquirt/standalone forums say to dial ignition and fuel before fighting with idle.

[Joe_the_ice_man]

Had a wicked cold, so was just kinda tinkering in the evenings. Got a Taurus fan mounted, wired in and programmed, still need to shroud it. Also put a 180 thermostat in, stock is 195. Temps stayed stable as long as it was moving (I hadn't put the fan in yet for that test drive).

Also worked on an exhaust manifold, cause the stock swift one doesnt play super nice with the motor mounts and I needed to make sure everyone remembers I'm a retard. Plus it's a shame to run a standalone without spicy parts and I don't feel like re tuning it down the road.

Dont rip my lack of welding skill too hard, I know I suck. I intend on wrapping all my engine bay exhaust anyway once I know it doesnt leak

[Scott Cee AKA 2drx4]

Looks legit from way back here.

[Joe_the_ice_man]

That's why the picture purposely far away and blurry

[Joe_the_ice_man]

Played around making a downpipe so I'm not shooting flames at the master cylinder.

Every other wideband sensor says that they want to be 4 inches from the turbo or collector, but the one I have (Innovate), which says 24. So I somewhat followed the instructions.

I payed more attention to fit up, back purge, and heat, plus I picked up some filler that was not thicker than my base metal. I'm gonna say that it went much better.

[Scott Cee AKA 2drx4]

That's a little odd to have a wide band that far downstream. I'm guessing they're worried about the heat getting it.

[arse_sidewards]

ttle odd to have a wide band that far downstream. I'm guessing they're worried about the heat getting it.

That doesn't make sense. The failure mode of wide bands is deposits building up. You want them hot to burn that shit off.

Regardless, bungs are cheap. Easy to toss two in.

[Joe_the_ice_man]

That's kinda my thought, add another at the 4 inches every other company recommends before I get it full of soot and other crap. That way if this one fails from running too cool I can move it upstream.

I don't understand why the instructions would be different unless it's something to do with the controller, every wideband runs the same Bosch sensor. Either that or they just want to sell more sensors?

I got a half dozen bungs already. Hopefully enough for a few more builds when I get around to them.