1940 Buick

[pointsnorth]

even the input shaft is beefy. a warn m12000 large frame winch has a 3/8 shaft (if that)as an input. but it it also has triple planetaries as well

[Provience]

Thanks for the feedback, yeah I've always wanted to have the winch on the axle never tried it, but have seen it a few times and it seems to work. it does a couple things in my head:

moves ~100lbs down to unsprung weight, not good for racing, but i plan on running water in the tires as well (yeah yeah, Toyota axle will hate me ) so unsprung weight should be a benefit for crawling

it also means i don't need to build a substantial front part of the chassis as it will just be for shocks and some shitty bumper thing

i'm more comfortable doing it with a hydraulic winch instead of an electric, i'm not planning on using the electric solenoid MM sends them with, so even if it is underwater there isn't anything that will cause an issue. grease notwithstanding.

pulling from the axle should mean i'm also tugging on the middle of the chassis along with pulling the tires up and over instead of trying to shove them down and under.

i think the hydraulic winches are built better than the electrics because they are intended more for constant use/industrial stuff and there are just fewer parts so they can stuff a bit more in. the shaft measured ~0.790" diameter.

i'm training a new guy at work, so this was his first project on the lathe. made up sleeves to keep everything straight and i'll get it all welded tomorrow and it should be good to go back together. 2" is about 20% of my drum, so i might only get ~40' of line back on there. not the greatest, but hopefully i won't need to winch up any 50' vertical walls. a couple 25' lengths of rope is pretty light

anybody have a reason why i shouldn't run moly CV grease instead of #2 red n tacky inside this?


edit: i need to add this in here. email from Tom Allen with PSC Tom Allen concerning their SPX33072 XR series unrestricted race pump. They are only $400 ea. 1 would be tits for most people, but 2 just might do what i want dealing with 18gpm instead of 30gpm with an industrial gear pump would be much easier and it would be cheaper than the $1300-1600 'trophy truck' pumps that run 8gpm idle to about 15 gpm

The unrestricted pump will flow 4-5 gpm at idle and go up the 9 gpm at high rpm. Never ran these in tandem before

[Provience]

Proof that i can kind of weld, never have been able to 'walk the cup' and only got a little bit at a time before i had to roll the thing over

and proof that i can't weld at all I was trying to show my apprentice some examples on tig welding today, weld too far with the electrode stick out and corrupted this on my tack weld

side shot of how far i had to grind it out

yup, i knew it was bad and said 'screw it' and just kept welding

so then i filled it back in at the house.

[Provience]

Spacers and sleeves i used to keep everything straight:

Drum, a piece of 2"x1/4 wall, had to turn it down to 1.990" to clear the inside of the drum.

Drive shaft, 0.790" bore with 1.25" OD

case brace rods, 5/8" ID and 3/4" OD

everything seemed all good, but the spline coupler uses a roll pin, and i had to sand down the roll pin because it wouldn't fit inside the spacer i made for the drum i added some extra grease there, but it should probably self clearance if it needs it

sanded the drum to smooth, painted it blue because it was handy. drops it down substantially in comparison that will be much easier to build around

top shot

also http://www.masterpull.com/superline-syn ... inch-line/ masterpull claims their 5/16" winch line is rated for 21,700 lbs which is better than the straight dyneema uhmwpe 12 strand 3/8" braid. that should be both plenty of strength and being smaller should help me get an extra foot or two on there.

edit: oh, as far as grease is concerned, i ended up going with the regular moly CV grease i put in the birfs. this winch has rubber orings that make for a pretty tight fit to the drum, i could probably add a drain plug and run straight 30wt oil or 80/90 and it would be just damned fine.

[pointsnorth]

And then?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Provience]

And then?


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and then....i've not touched the poor thing :( covid hit, i got all pissed off about not being able to do various things, spent some time working on the house, bought an RV and worked on that, got my van running and have been enjoying the hell out of that, riots hit and sucked up massive amounts of my attention and then i had to leave the country for work.

I took on a couple of gear swaps for a friend and that the only work i've done in the garage for a long time. next year i've got at least 5 months that i know i'm going to be gone for work with a high chance of moving in 2022, so i NEED to get it welded up to the point i can strap it to the trailer without tearing it apart, and I WANT to get a whole bunch of parts in place that are big/large for the purpose of being able to move it. i.e. there is likely to be no progress on things like floors or dash or finishing stuff.

Hopefully i'll actually get my pumps and hydro hard parts put in place early next year and finish roughing out the cage so that i don't have so many full sticks of tube to move.

basically, i suck :flipoff2:

[Provience]

welp made something resembling progress, i think...maybe...not sure.

Drew out the new and improved winch bolt pattern, uses 3/8" bolts at 8-1/32"x4-1/2"

Drilled it out and managed to get 3 outta 4 holes in the right spot i'll make up a plug at some point and redrill this. or maybe i'll use the 2 front and 2 rear face mount bolt holes instead of the bottom feet ones, i dunno, works for now as that is an eventually problem

needed a way to hold things in place. about 2-3/4" off the top of the axle to clear the differential. this is a small and cheap version of what i ultimately want to do, need some kind of structure underneath the 3/8" main plate as i'd like to keep that "bolt on"

installed, it looks like this

and a 14" x 12" with a leg cut out of 3/8" plate will be my base for all things. at least with the winch bolted to the plate, i can clamp it all down to the axle and figure out steering cylinder mounts and tierod clearance and winch fairlead mount. then the whole thing will get a skid of some sort. I need to remember to order some more spacers for 3/4" to 5/8". used parts suck, the ones that came on the tierod and well destroyed.

[Provience]

this is how it looks underneath, i've got lots of space to add lot's of supports and such and whatnot

why didn't i just buy cylinders that already had eyes on them? I dunno, but i didn't first things first, cut the end off without cutting the actual cylinder

then smooth it out

and for some reason i ordered half as many of these as i needed, so go ahead and cut one down a bunch and eyeball it into center.

In addition to allowing the cylinder to tolerate the up/down/in/out swing that the steering arm makes, this also let's me orient the cylinder so that i can put the plugs facing up instead of back, which is nice

[Provience]

With it eyballed in to place, begin welding. I pulled the plug for the side i'm welding on so that it can vent and left the plug in for the opposite side with the piston at the opposite end, hopefully this should keep the seals from getting cooked. kind of high risk/low reward when the other option is to simply remove a snap ring and take the shaft out

I tried to take a picture of the "colors of the rainbow" that you get with a tig weld and i want to also explain why i don't care at all about the color. You know those people that want "perfect straw" all the way around? waste of shielding gas Check out the picture below. can you tell at all what color this weld was before i hit it off with a wire brush and wiped it with a rag? Nope! There is not "excess oxidization" or whatever those nutjobs...er, salespeople, tell you that you get with various colors. every weld that gets put into service is eventually going to get cleaned, the moment it gets touched, the color is lost to time, so don't sweat the color, it really doesn't matter.

I went ahead and ran another loopy pass over top of this one to build it up and didn't take a picture. in theory, with the dual cylinders there should always be more pressure pushing the cylinder into this eye rather than pulling at it, so it probably doesn't matter, but did it anyway.

and i need to cut down the other rod end and destroy the threads that are in there or make a spacer for it. either way, that will be a work thing over lunch next week.

note my tig gloves that keep me from welding on the cylinder too much

[Scott Cee AKA 2drx4]

I did the same shit with a cheap cylinder. What a waste of time.

[Provience]

I did the same shit with a cheap cylinder. What a waste of time.

massive, massive waste of time

so then i'm sitting there looking at it thinking...

it's got 3/8" fittings on there and i'm going to run 1/2" feed lines, i should cut these out and put in some 1/2" fittings.

oh look, it's got a 1/4" feed hole is all at the bottom, i should drill that out to closer to 3/8" when i take it apart to put in the limit spacer

no. just no I MIGHT open up the 1/4" hole a touch, but really i just need to stop looking at them, it just adds more things and honestly, it will save ~20psi at full tilt. who cares about 20psi at full tilt? not me at the moment

So i went back and looked up the price difference, turns out it is ~$50 cheaper to make my own and it only costs me a couple hours of work per cylinder!

[Provience]

Working on the other end, chopped off 1" of the shaft and removed all the threads with a burr bit on a drill

Then went on to checking clearance with the tie rod

With the tire turned full outboard, the steering arm is at it's highest point

Full inboard, at it's lowest point

as much as i wanted to keep the cylinder "in line", it just isn't going to happen and i'll need to put it rearward a bit for everything to clear and be happy. Ordered up a smattering of misalignment spacers from ruffstuff specialties. Going to run tall and wide on the bottom fixed end of the cylinder and on the steering arm side for the tierod with narrow spacers everywhere else. once those come in i'll be able to get the base plate trimmed way down, once that is done i'll be able to play around with building a brace for it underneath

and started measuring some stuff to see what's going to fit in the future. minor concerns, such as fans and radiators and other useless nonsense that everybody seems to run for some reason.

[Provience]

and in the interest of research while i wait for the other joints i ordered so that i can make the other cylinder match and wait for the spacers to show up so i can play with mounts, figured i'd see how some body panels fit and guesstimate some radiator options

I need to trim a little bit more out of my hood, it's still sitting a bit high in the nose

using wood blocks at the moment, but i think trimming this out will help keep everything lower to the tubes and some low quality tabs will keep it removeable

front inner fender removed, outer fender will need pretty good trimming to get it high and back enough to "fit". still undecided on how i want to go about dealing with the tire. maybe just flatten out the whole thing, maybe just trim it and roll the bottom wherever it ends up, maybe slice it and add a couple inches width so that it looks mostly stock. i dunno, but it looks badass stuffed on there, even if i can't stand far enough back to take a picture

[Snowracer]

love the old sheet metal with big ass tires

[mrghostwalker]

This will be awesome when it's done!