2001 Blazer Zr2

[SkunkedGorillaz]

There's not much you can do wrong in them. I once managed to put the shift fork/collar in cocked (I have no idea how to this day) and it jammed up. Otherwise if you shift it, it should shift.

That said, I did break the welds from the fork to the rail on a 241. It just stayed in 2wd after that as moving the shifter just caused the rail to slide inside the fork and not move the collar. But it took a good tug on the shifter to do it.

This is/was my 1st time instead a transfer case and it didn't look too complicated, everything came apart easily and went back together easily.

No leftover parts either. It all appeared to be functional on the bench as Well..,

Sent from my SM-T227U using Tapatalk

[Scott Cee AKA 2drx4]

When you shift if you can feel the shifter move into the detent points? If the shifter on the truck is screwy it may just be putting it into neutral or half engaged. You can rule it out by taking the shifter off and just shifting it with a wrench.

[Scoobienorth]

My thought process on this is that rear is basically straight through and should work but break down the area to focus on for the issue. If it’s the front only it’ll more than likely be in the shift fork/ collar at the chain is where the issue is, if there’s no rear drive either the issue is likely in the low range/neutral shift collar/planetary area.

[SkunkedGorillaz]

I feel a little dumb and sheepish atm. I was Damn sure I did this transfer case proper. Watched YouTube videos and read the NP231 service manual for a week while doing the repairs.

After some reading online I just tried locking my front hubs into lock instead of free, and now I have power to the front axles. It shifts fine into all ranges.

Am I good to boot around town in 4x4 with the front hubs locked while I wait for my rear drive shaft? I always thought you should keep the front axle on free while not off road or In slippery conditions...


I appreciate all the help and feed back, trying to help me sort this out.

Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

[Scoobienorth]

That’s funny. Should be good. I’ve drove previous Jeeps with no rear driveshaft and had no issues

[Scott Cee AKA 2drx4]

Did you put a fixed yoke on the rear? With a slip yoke they tend to pump all the fluid out if there's no driveshaft. A company used to sell a cap you could put into the output if you didn't have a driveshaft, but I haven't seen one in at least a decade.

[arse_sidewards]

A company used to sell a cap you could put into the output if you didn't have a driveshaft, but I haven't seen one in at least a decade.

They still make them.

[pointsnorth]

A company used to sell a cap you could put into the output if you didn't have a driveshaft, but I haven't seen one in at least a decade.

They still make them.

0073420000110_a7c1_1200.png

Lol I used a beer can to get a guys trailer back on the road. This summer


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[SkunkedGorillaz]

A company used to sell a cap you could put into the output if you didn't have a driveshaft, but I haven't seen one in at least a decade.

They still make them.

0073420000110_a7c1_1200.png

Lol I used a beer can to get a guys trailer back on the road. This summer


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'll have to figure something out ... just heard back from the driveline place I sent the driveshaft off too.

Apparently rhw slipyoke off the drive shaft are not manufactured anymore and have been disconnected.... they may have found a compatible replacement from the states but he'd have to order it in to see if it will work .....

So looks like I'll be without a rear driveshaft for longer than expected ..

It never rains it pours lol

Well at least the transfer case is back in and functioning properly.

Guess while I wait on word for this driveshaft, I'll work on bashing up a Center Console for the truck.

Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

[Scott Cee AKA 2drx4]

A junkyard might have the slip yoke you need, if there's any decent ones around you.

[SkunkedGorillaz]

A junkyard might have the slip yoke you need, if there's any decent ones around you.

Might have to explore this option a little more in the next week or so.


The Driveline shop I sent it to just called me. There is no parts availability for my shaft. They said the only option is to build it up bigger ??? Once I heard the price I asked to have the driveshaft returned.

Was given a rough quote of $2100 + to do the needed work.
.
That seems like quite the hefty price.. thats more than triple what I've ever paid for any jeep driveshaft to be rebuilt.

Guess 2023 isn't starting off the most financially positive start. Going to rip to the city once I get the shaft back and take both shaft and truck to a different Driveline place and hopefully get a more reasonable quote. But I won't hold my breath.

$2000+ during the holidays and worh 3 birthdays the next month doesn't leave much wiggle room to commit to that kind of repair unfortunately. Might have to wait a couple months.

Sent from my SM-G781W using Tapatalk

[Scott Cee AKA 2drx4]

I would probably look at JE Reel, High Angle, or Tom Woods as an option at that point. All are very knowledgeable and probably can figure out what yoke will work and charge a lot less than that. Downside is they're all in the US. They are dedicated offroad driveline shops though.

Pat's Driveline also might be an option. Not sure if they have a location near you.

[Scott Cee AKA 2drx4]

Another thing is you might want to consider going to a fixed yoke. I don't know what a SYE (slice yoke eliminator) costs for that tcase, but it might let you use a Yukon driveshaft for a JK or something like that (can be ordered in a variety of lengths I believe), or some other option like that. There's just no way that should be anywhere near a $2000 problem.