1940 Buick

[Provience]

and the other half of it

edit: if you don't post a picture of a weld, is it even a build thread?

[Provience]

i'm reusing some joints, wasn't able to cleanly cut this one out it will be replaced, so i stuck it in backwards so i hopefully wouldn't forget

seemed like a good spot for the uppers at the time

upper links tower of power. lower links are mount above axle centerline, so to keep 10" of separation these jokers got tall

compared to the old 3 link mount that was there

[Provience]

cut, hammer, remove and even clean a little

[Provience]

so i tried to use a level and be halfway decent about it

one of these is supposed an old PSC pump that came with the engine, the other is a stock dodge 5.9 gasser from a 2500 van. i had planned on running dual pumps, but i've been in talks with radial-dynamics. he is working making his own 'high volume' pump and thinks he should be able to get ~8+ gpm at idle and unregulated get near 15gpm. so that would be dope. he was working with doing modded CBR pumps, but has decided to go full custom. if he isn't able to get something doing, then i'm back to being torn about trophy truck pumps to get ~13gpm. this would be a bit less flow than i want. scotts custom offroad gear pump, because he has the brackets and pulleys all figured out and makes it easy and cheap, but then becomes the issue of dealing with the obscene amounts of flow (20+gpm above 4500rpm).

just for curiosity sake, i sent both of these pumps to radial dynamics. hopefully he will get around to tossing them on his flow machine for some real world comparison of what flow and PSI stock stuff will typically do after a few years vs advertised specs.

i'm pretty sure this is the final version hydraulic schematic i'm planning on running

pump to load sense valve to load sense variable flow steering valve to dual, dual acting cylinders for steering (not pictured)

from load sense valve, to another load sense valve to hydraulic brake booster so that i'm not trying to force shit tons of volume through the brakes

from that load sense valve to an open center valve with a lever for power in/power out of the winch.

so i need high flow from the pump so that the winch isn't ungodly slow and at least 6 gpm at idle so that the steering valve won't slow down at idle and can grab as much as it wants whenever.

it will either be badfuckingass or total shit



used some string to mark out the body, chopped the bottom 6" off of it and just kind of hacked around the wheelwells

[Provience]

First test fit of the body

lots more cutting to get it down to just the shell

shocks came in

then the coupler for the tcases

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upper shock mounts

yes, they are a massive lever, but i'm hopeing that tying them together will keep them from ripping off in dramatic fashion

slappin up some more tube

precarious cut

but it worked

[HillBilt]

This thing is sooo badass some of the pics aren't showing up??

Your notching drill is old as fawk!!

[Provience]

outline of tubes pretty well set

stared at some tape

until it turned in to tube

i've only got 3 seats, because when i started my kid was small enough for a car seat with harness. by the time i get done, he'll need his own PRP seat

and a shot of the whole variety of the cheapest calipers you can buy. the verniers are far and away more consistent/accurate/repeatable/reliable than the other two

[HillBilt]

Nevermind pics are showing up now

[Provience]

This thing is sooo badass some of the pics aren't showing up??

Your notching drill is old as fawk!!

bro, that drill is freshly rebuilt

soooo, i don't use the trigger lock anymore

i'll have to go back through and check the pictures once i get caught up edit: sweet :)

[Provience]

busted out my high precision band saw to make some quick tabs

and make setup quality rear upper shock mounts. these actually seem to clear where i want to put the interior so there is a good chance they will simply get braced where they are at. it's only temporary unless it works

when i went to pick up the chassis to put the shocks on, i managed to destroy the front suspension

and let the magic smoke out of one of the shocks

magic ratchet straps to the rescue!

[HillBilt]

bro, that drill is freshly rebuilt

IMG_2515.JPG

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soooo, i don't use the trigger lock anymore

i'll have to go back through and check the pictures once i get caught up edit: sweet :)

Holy shit I love it

[Provience]

i can't keep focused on any one thing long enough to get it done, so i figured i'd install the detroit i picked up for the front and get the new gears put in it.

you don't really need the right tools, as long as you have some tools

while i don't mind using cheap calipers on most things, a decent digital mic is worth having for measuring shims

pretty these pictures are of the last setup that i did. good, bad or otherwise i'm not taking it apart again until it breaks

[Provience]

i sold the regular hubs that came with this axle when i sold my old minitruck axle, so i'm running my IFS hubs. I've owned these hubs since 2001 i think? came with the truck in stock form, 1987 pickup was my first truck. the very first time i got stuck offroading and couldn't get out, i called my grandma, who was still spry and only in her 70's then, and me and her hiked in a couple miles with a come-along and 4 lengths of "old loggin' chains" to rescue me from my "boonie crashing" still use those chains and just scrapped the now broken comalong last week. just a few months ago in a fit of depression, i finally sold the title for that truck and away it's carcass went to the scrap yard.

so there's some snapped pins and sheared studs on those now...time to fix that!

7/16-14 bolt upgrade and more pins should do the trick

also, the rear brakes were absolutely trashed on this thing, damn studs had been both welded in before and had spot welds to "build up the splines" :shaking: don't do that. if you need to get some broken shit off the trail, just weld them in place. weld on the splines isn't worth it

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it was previously set up to use stock toyota solid axle disc rotors and calipers. i had tacoma rotors that i'd previously used and couldn't give away, so....#fuckit slip on rotors are better than press on, plus i already had em. looks close enough on hat

i'd like to take a moment to thank my sponsor TIDY CATS, we soak up your shit!

took the shaft in to work and turned the OD down and recut the face to clean up the smooshed out metal

stock toyota IFS front wheel studs to replace whatever was there before

and back together