I may have a problem. Yet another unfinished turbo Sami?

[Joe_the_ice_man]

Got all the pinholes that I could find patched up in the cooling system, I *think* it should be ok now. Also put on the oil pan I built, but I think imma redo it from scratch for a couple reasons.

1. It looks goofy because I assumed the gasket surface was square to the frame. Spoiler alert, it's not, it's about an inch higher on the passenger side than the driver side.

2. It leaks where I put too much heat into it and warped the gasket surface. It doesnt leak terrible, but I know I can do better, especially now that I have a block I'm not scared of wrecking that I can bolt it on to try and keep it truer. It'll do for the moment. I havent decided if I want to make a windage tray inside or not, i know they come with them stock, but I'm really not sure if its enough benefit to be worth the work.

Quickly scabbed up a temporary exhaust section too cause I was too lazy to pick up the parts I need from town to make the thing run.

I think I have the wiring paired down to just over a half dozen wires to make it run, will definitely be more than that to make the ECU happy though. Just need to pick up some relays from town.

[Scott Cee AKA 2drx4]

That pan was a lot of work to walk away from.

[Joe_the_ice_man]

That pan was a lot of work to walk away from.

Yes, but I am calling it practice. The more time I spend with a torch in my hand, the more opportunity I give myself to not be crap.

[Joe_the_ice_man]

Well, Turns out I'm retarded, was doing the good ol' twist and electrical tape to try and get an ecu to boot up based on a Haynes manual, and it did not go well. I was not paying enough attention to polarity when plumbing in my main relay and I think I cooked something and unfortunately I dont have any of these cars I can plug it into to test/cheat off their homework. Apparently OEM ECUs are steep, closest I could find to the right one was 450 used...I think I found something cheaper, that actually has instructions for what I'm doing.

Yes, I'm retarded, but it could be fun though.

[Scott Cee AKA 2drx4]

That's probably the better way to go in the long run. I'm curious how easy it is to set up and get working.

[Joe_the_ice_man]

Ok, so the instructions are not entirely complete. Most of the people that run megasquirts on Suzukis are running the 1.3 DOHC/GTi on a Megasquirt 1. Apparently I picked up a MS3.

Long story short, buddy bought a project from someone else and it ran, but never ran right, so he decided that he'd rather start wiring from scratch and install a standalone he knew something about.

Pros

I got this thing for 200 bucks
It's mostly built already.
The manual is free online

Cons
It's set up for a VW 1.8t, so now I have to figure out how to take it back to "stock", then set it up for a SOHC 1.3.

Someone else built it, so I have to check through everything they did and make sure that it's right...not that i know what right is...

All the instructions I've found are for the distributor ignition GTi, so I will have to adapt them...yay...

I will have to do some "user mods" to make it run my ignition and idle control valve

Here nor there.
It has the "upgraded" 4 BAR MAP sensor. Really that's not ideal for me, as I have no intention of ever running this motor at 4 BAR, so the "stock 3 Bar would have more resolution, but it should be fine.

[Joe_the_ice_man]

I believe I have all the 1.8t mods un-done, which *appeared* to just be ignition stuff.

After looking through the manual and scouring the internet for any details on these motors I ordered what I *think* I need to make it work with a 1.3. As far as I understand inputs and mods for said inputs are as follows.

Crank sensor - set jumpers on the board to VR crank sensor settings. Seems straightforward, will require programming.

Cam sensor - may or may not be needed for wasted spark, gonna try without first. Mods *shouldn't* require any extra parts aside from jumpers.

MAP sensor - built into ECU, just needs a hose from manifold.

Intake air temp sensor - normal 2 wire sensor, should just require calibration during programming.

Coolant temp sensor - not 100% how this one works yet as its 3 pin, worst case I buy a standard 2 pin GM temp sensor.

TPS - standard 3 pin sensor, no mods needed

O2 sensor - standard 4 pin narrowband sensor, no mods needed.

Fuel pump - ground side of relay coil controlled by ECU. Fuel pump power also used to run coils and injectors?

Fuel injectors - should be high impedance, ground can connect straight to ECU (need to confirm) flow rate should be ~175cc/min (need to confirm) no mods needed for batch fire.

Ignition coils - appear to be logic coils with a built in igniter. It seems mods are needed for any ignition system, but these require the least intensive mods. Options for Mosfet control (whatever that is) and board control with extra resistors. I bought components for both methods because they were cheap. Board will support up to 6 channels of ignition control, I only need 2.

Idle air control - Appears to be a PWM valve. Requires a mod, adding a transistor (whatever that is) and a diode.

Tach signal out - minor detail, but will likely not play with Samurai tach without mods. Manual says something about using a relay coil to create a voltage spike.

[Joe_the_ice_man]

That's probably the better way to go in the long run. I'm curious how easy it is to set up and get working.

I agree, and I've been threatening myself with one of these for years, probably the best opportunity to get into one.

We'll see how easy it is...but I guess any hope of this being a "conservative" build is out the window now

[Scoobienorth]

That's probably the better way to go in the long run. I'm curious how easy it is to set up and get working.

I agree, and I've been threatening myself with one of these for years, probably the best opportunity to get into one.

We'll see how easy it is...but I guess any hope of this being a "conservative" build is out the window now

The conservative build thing makes me laugh. It’s kinda like me justifying to myself having a second Jeep that’s cheaper to fix is like saving money because I will wreck the more expensive one less

[Joe_the_ice_man]

The conservative build thing makes me laugh. It’s kinda like me justifying to myself having a second Jeep that’s cheaper to fix is like saving money because I will wreck the more expensive one less

That's basically it.
I guess when this one gets too out of hand I'll just have to get another Samurai

Tho imma be honest, I think I found a Swift GTi for my next build already...as if I need another

[Joe_the_ice_man]

My box of witchcraft components showed up today. Based on my limited understanding, I should be able to make a motor run with what I have now.

Built the ignition system

And set up a circuit to control the idle control system.

In the morning imma look everything over to make sure my dyslexia didnt strike again.

[Scott Cee AKA 2drx4]

Hmm, very interesting. I do want to see how this goes from the programming perspective too.

[Joe_the_ice_man]

Been messing with this for the last day and a half. I have the megasquirt harness plumbed into the motor, will post my wiring if it works.

So far the cam and map sensors are unused, no cam needed for wasted spark and batch fire injection, and megasquirt has a built in map. Coils and injectors are cycling with the test function in the tuning software. And all sensors are doing roughly the right thing, but I definitely will need to calibrate them, currently just using whatever GM sensor profiles it has built in.

Apparently at least this example of the SOHC motor has the same crank sensor wheel as some Subarus and RX8s, which means there is a crank wheel code written for it already, some people have said the timing is 180 degrees out, but I just checked mine with a test light and it is right. Setting is 36-2-2-2 under the ignition menu.

[Joe_the_ice_man]

Alright. Proof of concept, it runs. It doesnt run good, but it runs.

I still need to figure out if I have the idle valve set up right and how to tune the stupid thing.

Also a bunch of little things, but with it running I feel like I can deal with all the little details. In theory it should move around the yard under it's own power again.

[Joe_the_ice_man]

Been tinkering on it the last couple evenings. I was having issues with the Map sensor reading boost all the time, and therefore pushing everything super rich, and just all round doing wierd things.

Did a bunch of reading and probing and traced good signals all the way to the processor. I also programmed it to run the baro sensor as a map off a different input and that worked, so I'm blaming the processor circuit. Anyway, I cheated and ran a jumper from the processor input pin to one of the other programmable inputs and now it reads right.

It seems peppy enough ripping up and down the driveway with hood half way up cause it won't close with the airbox sitting on top of the rad...neighbors didn't even seem surprised...