Project Lay-Z-Boy

[pointsnorth]

I’ve broken a carrier like that wedged In a deep v-notch with tons of traction before


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[Scoobienorth]

I didn’t think a 26:1 crawl ratio with my sacked auto transmission had it in it to be bc honest.

[Scott Cee AKA 2drx4]

Those stock carriers sure aren't great. That might have been cracking for a while and finally split good.

So, what's the upgrade plan?

[Scoobienorth]

Those stock carriers sure aren't great. That might have been cracking for a while and finally split good.

So, what's the upgrade plan?

Think I’m going to try and get it running again on the cheap and easy and keep sending it, perhaps slightly gentler though

[Scoobienorth]

I really want to build another rig, something a bit more serious, this thing is pretty beat and wore down. I thought the trans was on its last legs when I bought it almost 5 years ago and this current Tcase is on its way out. Motor is solid, I’d like to borrow a few parts for the white jeep and keep it on 33-34” tires.

[Scoobienorth]

Ordered a new carrier off Amazon for $118. No one lovely could get one except Lordco and they quoted me “roughly” $1200....

[pointsnorth]

you looking to stay on a jeep platform or maybe something different

[Scoobienorth]

you looking to stay on a jeep platform or maybe something different

Both. I’d like to ideally build a more dedicated rig for the snow season, bigger tires and trans/tcase/diffs with more gearing options, bigger tires, 42’s. Kicker for me is it needs to be completely streetable. Was thinking like a ranger extra cab with a Jeep 4.5L stroker motor, manual trans into doubler and super duty diffs. Reality is it’s probably easier and not that much of a weight difference to just find an old f-250 and drop superduty diffs in and it’ll be a lower heat score for street driving.

[pointsnorth]

A regular cab short box v10 would be sweet


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[Scoobienorth]

Nothing really pic worthy but I managed to score a mostly complete jk d30 front end, all there except the outer knuckle assembly, but did have some brake parts off Facebook for a reasonable price, plan is so I’ve got stock on parts I will need, another carrier, axles and if I party to hard a spare housing. Also started a new job and a coworker has a parts wj, v8 one with motor issues, so tempted up load up on more parts from it, spare rear diff, some misc. parts I tend to go through, it’s not color matching but may take more body parts, especially the rear door since it seems to take a beating and the rear side glass.

[Scoobienorth]

Goal is to finish this winter still driving, tcase is on its way out. If I’m going to keep wheeling this it’ll need to step up one more time. Brian is talking about buying my 37’s, so I may step up to 38” milestar Patagonia mostly to gain a little width to help float. I don’t think it’ll be that much harder on parts, I definitely need to regear and would really like to add an eco box doubler when I swap tcases, as I’ll need driveshafts anyways. Certain snow conditions I’d love to have 100:1 instead of my 28:1 crawl ratio but I’ll have to be careful, it’ll twist my drivetrain apart. Definitely no doubler on the rocks. I’ll also need to lose more weight, got the door speakers, possibly rear window regulators, one side is already hot and miss working, maybe finish plumbing my a/c compressor for on board air and leave my current compressor at home, ditch the spare tire, not sure where else you cut weight, it’s pretty trim already.

[Scott Cee AKA 2drx4]

Ecobox is a good unit. Definitely worth the price.

[Scoobienorth]

Radical idea time, since this rig is down for a while due to budget constraints , been contemplating taking it further. Thinking of gutting the rear setup, making a firewall behind the rear seat, moving radiator maybe to rear drivers side window area, battery in the back, sealed tool box, and ditching the hatch and rear side windows, would lighten the front, could gain approach angle, and drop overall weight. I’ve got most of the stuff already to do this on hand except possibly a front wheel drive car radiator/fan setup and plumbing?? Any thoughts on this?

[Scoobienorth]

The rad is probably more trouble than it’s worth and works well as I don’t ever overheat and it gets worked hard, the battery however might go backwards and might help gain some uptravel and flex up front as I’m pretty congested up front but with Airbox gone on one side and the battery on the other, delete the cruise control module I might be able to get another inch or more uptravel

[Scott Cee AKA 2drx4]

Most rear mounted rad setups aren't worth it on anything with a body. Hard to plumb, poses a safety risk if not plumbed properly, often the pump has trouble feeding them if you've snaked the hoses a bunch, and in general you get horrible airflow.

Unless you're really wanting to go with a dovenose type setup and really narrow it and cut it back, it isn't worth it.